The cenotes of Bacalar

Bacalar is calmest on sunny weekday mornings, when the lagoon shows its famous seven shades of blue. Wind and clouds dull the colors, and weekends bring more boats and visitors.

Rain from about June to October can stir up the water, so the lagoon may look less clear after storms.

Bacalar is in southern Quintana Roo, about 40 km north of Chetumal and a long drive from Tulum (reported several hours). Buses run along the highway, and Chetumal has the nearest airport.

Most cenote stops are along the lagoon shore, so a car, bike or boat tour is the easiest way to move between them.

The Bacalar lagoon is a long freshwater lake fed by underground water, and several cenotes open inside it or beside it. In the lagoon, cenotes show up as dark blue patches where the bottom suddenly drops away; Cenote Azul is a separate round sinkhole next to the shore.

Cenote Azul and Cocalitos are reachable by car, taxi or bike from town. Cenote Negro and Cenote Esmeralda sit in the lagoon and are usually visited by boat, kayak or paddleboard.

Boat tours are the easiest way to see the lagoon cenotes, the Canal de los Piratas and the Isla de los Pájaros viewpoint in a few hours. Kayak and paddleboard tours at sunrise are quieter and closer to the water. Sailing trips move slowly and suit relaxed groups.

The shallow edges of the lagoon, especially at Cocalitos, hold stromatolites: layered rock built by microbes, among the oldest forms of life on Earth. They are fragile, so do not stand, sit or walk on them.

Do not wear sunscreen or repellent in the water, stay off the stromatolites, and use licensed boat operators. Motorboats have limits in parts of the lagoon to protect it.